Cambodia - Day 5

Cambodia 2007

Day 5:

- Kep

We woke up and....Gan informed me that she was ill. She felt giddy and probably will not survive a motorbike ride up a rocky mountain road.

I blinked...and got her to eat breakfast and get something within her first. She drank some coconut and ended up puking into the river. She got me really alarmed.

We were wondering whether to cancel the Bokor trip but I was hesitant because we had already paid the deposit of 30 USD and it wouldn't be nice to take it back. Gan suggested that I go alone on a day trip up but I had my misgivings about being far and away from her. Then I think she rushed to the room to the toilet.

She came back to inform that we have to change rooms because the toilet bowl was clogged up. At 8.30 a.m., V.Dad promptly arrived. I told him that we couldn't possibly go up because Gan was sick. He kinda looked stricken to me. However it was good that he was around because the people at the guesthouse can't really speak English. He has to help us explain that we need to change rooms because the toilet bowl was all clogged up. In the end he came back to tell us that they can un-clog it for us. I have no idea how bad it was but Gan said that it wasn't a pretty sight and I will definitely not want to see it. He suggested going to a doctor but Gan didn't want to. She insisted that she would just sleep it off. Even though we had the same food and all so far, I think probably her stomach just couldn't take the food. We were quite gung-ho...one down with a heat rash and the other down with God-knows-what and both not feeling like seeing a doctor.

Anyway V.Dad suggested that we go up the next day then. And so we were like.. we'll see how it goes..if Gan gets better then we will go up. He nodded.

We asked him for suggestions as to how I could spend the day. He said I could go on a day trip to Kep. I was worried about leaving Gan as she could faint or something and I wouldn't be around. Yet Gan was adamant on not wasting the day along with her because all she was going is to go to the toilet consistently and sleep everything off. And so after asking repeatedly if she was sure she didn't want me around and if she would be ok and all...I agreed to go on a day trip to Kep.

Well then I think the silence that followed was because I was finishing my breakfast, Gan was woozy and I think V.Dad didn't know what to say. He then left and came back with his Sony Mp4 and of all things, played some Chinese teeny-bopper song that I never heard of before. I think even Gan who was stoning off, turned to look at him. Apparently he got that in Phnom Penh for 40 USD. It was about palm-size like a palm top, sleeker and slimmer with a wide LCD screen. It has only a 1 GB space. I informed him that my Mp3 cost more than his and yeah its only a Mp3.

After the guesthouse people came to tell us that the room was once more habitable, I told V.Dad that I will set off at 9.30 a.m. and went back to the room with Gan first. I got water for her and made sure I had her call-card number. Sheesh...I kept repeatedly asking if she was fine, if she was sure she didn't need me around that I totally irritated myself also. And so after making sure she would call me and would be able to call me should she feel unwell, I left.

We sped off towards Kep and he was armed with a mask and sunglasses while I had.....nothing on. And so he stopped by little roadside stall in the middle of nowhere to allow me to purchase a mask. I don't know how much of a necessity it was but I figured that since everybody wears it and he seems to think that it was a big deal, I got one. It was just one of those masks of soft tissue paper where people in Taiwan and Japan wear when they are sick I think.

We stopped by a Muslim village and I obediently took some photos. I felt obliged to since he actually stopped to point it out and explain that they are all not around now because they have gone out to fish. Then it struck me that I haven't seen much Muslims around which is like a bit weird because given the close proximity of the countries of South-east Asia, I thought that people would move around and get more scattered and homogenous overall. However I think Muslim settlements are probably quite a rarity in Cambodia for V.Dad to point that out.

Ah well....

I found the scenery opposite more interesting though...

We reached a pier at the edge of Kep. While V.Dud went off to talk to his friends, I walked to the end, sat down and just stared at the sea, the scenery and the overcast skies. I took a few pictures and this one shows the route I traversed.

There were a few boats here and there and Rabbit Island was just a short distance away. V.Dud who joined me later said that it was a nice serene place with beautiful beaches. It is real quiet and he along with his friends were planning for a party to celebrate the New Year.

I also saw a little kid rowing a boat with a even smaller kid as passenger. Since they were just rowing around, I have no idea what they were doing....

There was a white statue of a naked woman right smack in the middle of Kep. I figured it has to be important. I asked V.Dad why did they erect a statue there. Apparently the story was about a woman who removed her clothes and committed suicide by jumping into the sea after she found out that her husband had died while out fishing in the sea. The place where the statue was erected was where she had committed suicide.

There wasn't much to see in Kep. I took a short walk by the beach and was vastly amused when V.Dad wrote our names in sand and urged me to take pictures to show Gan. He spelt my name wrongly but I didn't bother to correct him. Walking on the beach was charming and I would love to sit there and read except that I think it would be weird there and then and too deliberate to tell V.Dad to give me half an hour or an hour so I could sit and read.

There were huts dotting the area and I inquired about them. Apparently it was there for public use. I was quite surprised by that. I thought that since so much effort has gone into contructing them perhaps they were restricted in some ways and they did look pretty empty as though it wasn't as public as I thought. Blinking, I asked so... who goes there...he shrugged and said that couples or families go there during weekends.. Excited, I went, "So.. we can just go there?"
I was thinking that Gan and I could just sit and read in hammocks by the beach if she is still not well enough to make the trip up to Bokor.

And then V.Dad said...."Yeah...but if we go there, you have to be my girlfriend..." I couldn't help narrowing my eyes at him, momentarily forgetting that I shouldn't because it will cause wrinkles. And thus...he made suggestive remarks throughout my stay in Kampot and Kep. On one ocassion, while on the motorcycle, he pointed out a white and black bird and said that they were a couple....just like us. I think if I was drinking any water, I would have spat it out. And so I asked him...how did he know that it was a male and a female, they could be both females ...He went, "No..no..no.."

"It could be two males too, you know?..." I said.

"That's impossible.. it has to be one male and one female.. because that isn't natural. The white one is female and the black one is male."

I decided not to continue the pointless argument. (-_-")

I think he also pointed dogs having sex at least twice, to me.

He kept asking if I was hungry until I figured that he probably was. He then admitted that he was indeed hungry and thus we sped off to a hill-side guesthouse where he used to work. The view was quite impressive.

I really couldn't eat much and so only finished 2/3 of half of my plate of fried rice. Lunch was mostly in silence except for a few burst of conversation here and there.

Our guide was an ah beng..albeit a smart ah beng who speaks good English. He sports a crude snake tattoo on his right arm which he lifted to show me. I had inquired about his friend who I noticed sports a flashy earring. I was quite surprised as even in Singapore, guys who sport flashy earrings aren't exactly the cream of the crop so in conversative rural Cambodia, what was the culture actually like. I asked if the people think that his friend is 'bad' because of his earring. V.Dad admitted that some people do but it is just fashion. Then he went on to say that he has an earhole too but he doesn't normally wear it unless he goes to parties because his thinking changes as he grows older. That was when he showed me the tattoo which he got when he was 17 and said that he wanted to have it removed and how he preferred louder places when he was younger, now he prefers quieter places.

I raised an eyebrow and asked him how he is going to get the tattoo removed. His answer was that he has to get it done again. I think he means, 'laser-ing' it off....

And I asked if his parents were mad when he got it done (I was thinking to myself that I SO exhibit teacher characteristics...). He said, "yeah" and then shrugged...

He mentioned that was the youngest and has a sister and a brother who teaches English and his father used to be a policeman....he is definitely the deviant in the family.

And so.... I had an intelligent ah beng for a guide. Intelligent ah bengs are so amusing to talk to.

I didn't know if it was the protocol to pay for your guide's meal but I did because Nana mentioned it before. *shrugs...Anyway lunch and drinks for 2 at the guesthouse with the nice view was only 6 USD.

- The cave

Anyway after the early lunch, I asked what we could do next and he mentioned that we could visit the caves. So we went...

The minute he parked his bike, a little boy with bleached hair came running by with a torchlight. V.Dad said that the boy would show us the way. I started wondering how much he would ask for as I have had experiences with children requesting for money in Siem Reap. We were soon joined by 2 other men so there were 3 guys, 1 boy and me going off into the cave. But I felt I could trust V.Dad so *shrugs....though I did tell myself I should keep a Swiss army knife close the next time I went somewhere abroad alone.

The area outside of the caves seemed to be undergoing constructions and at some points we had to scramble over piles of gravel.

Inside the cave, the boy led the way and he kept the torchlight trained behind him so he could see. That meant that he was walking in near darkness. The ground was a rocky terrain and we had to be firm with our footing if not we could easily slip on loose stones. All of us were in slippers but the boy was the only one walking, making his way in darkness most of the time.

He was quite a precious one. He pointed out the characteristics that the cave had to offer, limited though they may be. He pointed out Buddhist murals and a little shrine and a boulder that was scarely held in place and seemed to be on the verge of falling as I stood below it and took pictures.

It is a flower but my macro function just isn't good enough plus I was in a rush since all eyes were on me while I took the picture. The boy bended down to smell it and told me to do the same. Since he had a grin on his face, I guessed it was probably foul-smelling and told him cheekily, "It smells bad right..."

He also pointed out stones in eccentric shapes
like 'tiger head', 'elephant-head'
though the second picture may not be too clear.

We had to really squeeze through narrow crevices to enter some caverns and it was so narrow, even I had to twist my body in some awkward shape to fit in spaces that was perhaps only as wide as my shoulders. It was quite an experience, being in a cave where it was not swarming with tourists nor too commercialised. It was also V.Dad first time there and.. he has been a guide for like.. what.. 5 years?!

The kid pointed out the crevices in the caverns Muslims prayed in and also where they hid the gold and diamonds before Pol Pot took them away. Amazing, isn't it? That the place is so tourist-free.

They saw a snake in that cavern. I didn't get to see it because taken aback and not knowing where it actually was, I shifted back. V.Dad probably thought that I was scared or something and so tried to keep me behind him while I tried desperately hard to peep over his shoulder. Nobody answered me in the commotion when I asked if it was poisonous......

Then we headed back and I bumped my head against a low boulder.... (-_-") Everybody walked like super fast possibly because of the snake encounter...

The opening !!

Out of the cave, I asked V.Dad how much money I was supposed to give to the boy and he said that it was up to me. I asked the boy if he was still studying and he said that he goes to school in the morning. In the end, I gave him 3 USD. It was only after when we were speeding off on the motorcycle, V.Dad told me I was very kind to give him so much. Usually people would only give 1 USD.

But he was so little....as in I asked V.Dad to place his age and he said that the little boy was probably 16 but he was shorter than me and thinner. He looked like 13 or 14 only. He was smart too. He could speak relatively good English and pointed out stalagmites and stalactites. I also wondered if the two men who had joined us in the caves would make him hand money over...

- Another beach

Ah well... and I asked V.Dad what we could do next. In the end we went to another beach opposite of Kep. It was quieter and I think they were building a resort. V.Dad complained about it over how it is a public beach and cordoning off an area meant that people couldn't go.

I walked on the beach and just plopped down and hugged my knees until I think V.Dad got bored and said that we should go drink some beer on him.

I raised my eyebrows and shrugged.

And so we ended up in the shade in one of the huts (but they didn't have hammocks) with a plate of prawns and 4 cans of beer. There was actually one stall that sold food and drinks and it was the only stall there. Suprisingly there weren't much people. In the entire afternoon that I was there, I only saw one Caucasian couple who came for a short while.

Cold beer on a hot day at the beach was wonderful but I rolled my eyes when V.Dad said that we were 'girlfriend and boyfriend' now. Initially I was a bit apprehensive about having beers.. I mean.. my guide was my only way back to Gan !! He assured me that his limit is 4 cans so 2 cans is fine. I raised my eyebrows...4 cans?!!! Gan.. you can do better than him !! But that wasn't the point, the point was his alcohol limit was damm low. Hah !

It was also a good day to get married. I kept seeing wedding cars and like decorated houses for weddings and when we were at the beach, we saw a couple taking wedding pictures too. Maybe they were all the same couple but the funniest thing was the bride and the bridemaids were in flip-flops ! Taking wedding pictures in flip-flops is so un-glam !!!

Anyway it was a slow, quiet and peaceful afternoon. We bantered a bit but silence was comfortable too..(ok at least it was quite comfortable for me..) There were a few amusing moments. He walked away (presumably for the bathroom) and said that he was going away and leaving me there. The funniest thing was, his handphone and Mp4 was right there at the hut. And so when he came back, I taunted him, "Weren't you going to drive back?" He gave some lame stuff about how he decided to come back after all... I told him that it was ok.. because I can just sell off his handphone and Mp4 and get someone to bring me back to the guesthouse. He said that nobody would buy it. I told him I just have to barter it for a ride back.

And so... I got the.."You are SO bad..." the entire afternoon.

About 5 p.m, just before the sun set, I was informed that we had to go because.....his bike has no lights. I went..."NOW you tell me?!!"

And so we rushed off.

I checked Gan the moment we arrived at the guesthouse. I asked how was she and she said she was still running a fever. I jumped into action and told her she has to see a doctor. She probably agrees heartily but she just appeared dazed like how when people just wake up from slumber. I rushed to make sure V.Dad was still around and told him that we have to see a doctor. Then I rushed back to pack for Gan. I didn't know what made me remember to ask her what medicine she has taken and to pack it in but I was glad I did. I supposed Gan's condition probably wasn't a serious one but we were in Kampot... where I am not even sure there is a hospital for her to be put on a drip if she needs it. I was actually in a frenzy while she lumbered out onto the bike.

V.Dad and friend brought us to two doctors before we got to a third one who wasn't making housecalls. I was glad for V.Dad because in the entire little clinic, nobody could speak English....

It was a good thing I packed the medicine that Gan took because the doctor asked for it and apparently Gan took the wrong medication. She took medication for cold, carbon tablets and Panadol. Ok, maybe carbon tablets and Panadol were relevant but the cold medicine was definitely off. She also had coconut and banana milkshake in the day. We looked at each other when the doctor said that she has to avoid coconut and milk, the very two things she had taken that day. (-_-")

In the end, Gan was given medicine and asked to come back the next day if it doesn't help. Seeing the doctor was cheap. I think it cost about 1.50 USD only. However the scary thing is I think she was given antibiotics (because one of the medicine was in a red and yellow capsule) and she was only given 3 capsules.

YAH...

Gan also took V.Dad's bike because I thought he was more stable, being older and how he actually could balance my backpack in front while riding the bike. However on the way back, it suddenly struck me that...he drank alcohol in the afternoon and his bike had no lights !!!

It was dusk by then and I kept turning back to see if they were ok. It was lucky that Kampot was a small town.

Anyway when we got back, the guesthostel was having some sort of celebration because the owner just got promoted through the ranks in the policeforce.

Just to note down the scheme of things, V.Dad actually works for a guesthouse further down but his friend is the nephew of the family who owns the place and the guesthouse just happens to be in the compound by the river, next to the family house.

There was much rowdiness and laughter till late at night. Gan and I were invited to partake in the buffet but we just didn't have any appetite too. I think V.Dad asked if I wanted to do anything but I decided I better not leave Gan alone. And so... while she slept, I lay on a hammock outside our room and looked at the stars while listening to my Mp3...until it was time for bed.

Cambodia 2007 - Day 4

Cambodia 2007

Day 4:

A shuttle bus came at 730 am to pick us to the bus deport to board the bus from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (the Mekong Express).

I was quite pleased with the service encountered so far. Our room was clean, there was hot water, the guesthouse sent a tuk-tuk driver to pick us up from the airport and then there was also a shuttle bus that picked us up from our guesthouse to the bus deport if we purchased a Mekong Express bus ticket which happened to be 10 USD only.

It was almost hotel-like services. Someone to chauffeur us to the guesthouse albeit a tuk-tuk...and then someone to ferry us to the bus deport.

However since we did not plan for after Siem Reap, except for researching on how to get to Phnom Penh next, we had totally no clue as to what we were going to do when we reached Phnom Penh. We had a few options. We could search for a guesthouse in Phnom Penh and then tour the city first before heading to Kampot or Kep before returning to catch the flight back to Singapore or head to Kampot or Kep first before touring Phnom Penh. Much actually depended on whether there was a bus leaving for Kampot and Kep when we arrived in Phnom Penh. Since nobody knew...we really took it easy and I was proud of Gan. If it was before, I am sure she would have done all the research possible and panicked if we missed our schedule or something. However this time, she wasn't too stressed nor worried and we just came up with other options in case we weren't able to leave for Kampot or Kep right away.

The bus to Phnom Penh was full however we saw really ugly Malaysians. They actually acted like typical ugly Singaporeans !! Initally we thought that they were from Hong Kong as they spoke in Cantonese then some of them conversed in Hokkien and we were confused. We knew that they weren't Singaporeans because they sound a little different. It was only when they spoke a bit of Mandarin before we realised that they were Malaysians.

The fuss was over seats. Can you imagine that? The seats on the Mekong Express were allocated. I think that this Malaysian guy along with his girlfriend (OR NOT..since he really came across as a sissy) changed his seat because the group had got on first and perhaps he thought that the bus weren't full. Initially he was allocated the seats before the toilet.

Ok, so a Singaporean Indian family boarded the bus at the same time as us. The Malaysian had taken their seats. I didn't pay attention until I heard the father boomed something like, "No !! YOU change..." And then the Malaysian guy along with the girl went back to their original seats beside us and screamed, "WHAT THE F**K !!!!" Gan and I looked at each other in disbelief. I supposed he was pissed because probably the service crew had said it was ok to switch seats, not expecting that the bus would be full.

Still.....his reaction was really ugly and totally uncalled for, don't you think? I mean it was bad luck to be allocated seats near the toilet. We had seats right beside him so we were near the toilet too. Big deal. Being able to change seats is an advantage but it is not some god-given right especially since they were allocated.

Then we witnessed some uncles coming up to him and offering to change seats with him presumably so he could be out of his dire mood because he was sulking so badly he was affecting the air that Gan and I were breathing in. It was quite annoying having uncles and aunties coming up to him and trying to pacify the spoilt sissified brat and him having to make a whole show by declining loudly.

All Gan and I wanted to do was to 'stone' in peace and the racket was making it almost impossible too. I would call him a sissy because his gestures were so effeminate and believe me....he made a big show out of holding a piece of tissue to his nose throughout the entire journey before he changed seats after people got down at the rest-point.

I mean.....the girl beside him didn't do anything....we didn't do anything...or maybe we had a bad nose and didn't smell anything....hmm maybe the girl beside him was his sister and not his girlfriend....

Anyway we were glad when he changed seats...Gan was commenting that he was affecting the aura around us.. after he changed seats, uncles and aunties stop coming by to offer to swap places with him and we were finally allowed some peace and quiet.

So disgusting right...

Ah well.. we mostly slept or stared at the scenery or just..well 'stone'.

It was about a 6 hour jouney. The Mekong Express offers ok services. They gave out wet towels, everybody had a bottle of water and a box of bread..plus the bus had toilet except that we didn't use it. We used the toilet at one of the stop-over. Gan and I walked a bit in search of a spectacle shop to tighten the screw on the spectacles but we didn't manage to find any.

Oh and I developed rashes. It got really bumpy and itchy on my arms. It was the first time that it happened, a testimony to how dirty Cambodia is. However since I did not develop it until the 4th day on the bus, I have no idea if it was the bus, 3 days of Siem Reap's puffs of travel dust, the two bottles of wine that I shared with Gan in 2 days or allergy to any unknown spices that perhaps was included in our food.

Gan kept telling me not to scratch or it would spread. But it was simply....just so itchy !!! (>.<) Since I didn't want to get nagged at.... I scratched when Gan wasn't looking. =P

We reached Phnom Penh close to 1 p.m. When we got down, we hurried into the office to ask whether they offered services to Kampot and Kep. They didn't. However they were nice enough to tell us that Central Market did but didn't know what time the bus leaves. We were in such a haste, I left my painting of Angkor Wat behind. We rushed for a tuk-tuk and the driver said that he thinks that the bus to Kep and Kampot leaves at 1.15 pm but he wasn't sure. It felt like the Amazing Race. Seeing that we were in a rush, the driver probably took the opportunity to rip us off. He charged us 2 USD to get to Central Market which was actually just a few streets away but we had no choice as we didn't want to waste time bargaining.

When we got there, Gan rushed into the office to ask while I waited on the tuk-tuk with our bags. It was only then I realised that I didn't have my painting with me. Gan came out mumbling something which I couldn't catch and then we left for the bus deport. The driver charged us another 1 USD to get there. (-_-")

When we reached the bus deport, it was after 1 p.m. The bus leaves at 1.15 p.m and we haven't purchased the tickets. We found the counter that sells the tickets to Kampot and Kep and Gan instructed me to look for the bus while she buys our tickets. I mean it was really adrenaline-pumping...

I found the bus...hung around while keeping one eye on the bus and the other on Gan. She rushed over with our tickets which cost 4 USD. We dumped our bags in the baggage space and boarded the bus. *PHEW....Then we set off and somehow it was really hot. So we swapped places a few times before we finally found comfortable seats away from the sun.

I managed to reach the Mekong Express office after a few failed attempts. Everything was so confusing. They offered 3 numbers. However I think one of them wasn't it or maybe it was the country code and area code that we needn't dial. The person on the line couldn't really understand either. Finally I got the correct number and found a nice lady and we could mutually understand each other accented English. She agreed to keep the painting for me until we returned to Phnom Penh. So nice right...=)

And since Gan was worried about having no accomodations, she asked me to call and book because she was feeling anti-social. (-_-")

Actually there wasn't any need because people there really are quite eager to earn our money. However I did call though and her first choice was fully booked. She didn't note down the number for her second choice and so we booked rooms for her third choice. The guy said that he was out and needed to return to check for the availability of the rooms so I said I would call back later.

Taking the bus was quite an experience. Check out the video to see how bumpy it was. We actually flopped about in our seats !

It was a rickety old bus but I kind of enjoyed the quaint experience. =)

The views of the rice fields were amazing....

Rice fields after rice fields,

weighted down with rice ready for harvesting,
glistening gold in the light.

Kep and Kampot are 45 mins apart.
When we reached Kep, it was already 5+ in the afternoon.

All those pictures were taken from the moving bus so they weren't extremely clear or had good framing. But imagine how I felt.....being on a rickety bumpy bus, heading for a little quiet town that is not swarming with tourists....golden rice fields with cows and buffaloes roaming freely...watching all that serenity as people went about their work quietly...

Gan and I didn't speak much and just slept or stared out of the window, while swaying from side to side like coconut trees in a storm. The bus was probably only half-filled at most and I was glad for it. I like space. =P

Well...on the other hand, we noticed this shifty uncle who kept staring at us. When we first got on, we changed seats about three times to avoid the sun. The uncle changed along with us. Then he kept turning back which was like so weird because we were the only ones at the back.

I looked away from Gan and commented quietly that the horrid uncle seemed to be really pinning his attention on us. Gan replied that she noticed him too and we wondered if he was trying to steal our stuff or something...We resolved to be more alert and only heaved a sigh of relief when he got down at one of the stops and disappeared.

And then....we were the only Asians there that were not Cambodians. Gan noticed that the Caucasians seemed to receive preferential treatment. At least there was a guy on the bus who gave out name cards (I think) to all the Caucasians. I said that perhaps he thought that we were Cambodians. Gan pointed out that since she was wearing spectacles, it was hardly possible for us to be mistaken as Cambodians.

*shrugs...if they don't want to do our business, we can take it elsewhere. I wasn't particularly offended by it.

We passed through Kep and when we reached Kampot, there was a surge of people clamouring to recommend their guesthostels or asking us to take their tuk-tuks or motorbikes. They nearly gave me a headache. Luckily we had booked a guesthostel and they had arranged for someone to come and pick us up.

I was however a little taken aback when I realised that our mode of transport was motorbikes. I was a little sceptical about balancing both me and my backpack on it. The guy who I rode with perched my backpack in front of him while Gan had hers on. I have no idea which is safer. Hah. It seemed that having mine is front compromise the rider's ability to navigate whereas carrying a backpack makes keeling over more of a probability.

After the initial few seconds of adjusting, I cast away the doubts and really enjoyed the motorbike ride. I LOVE BEING ON A MOTORCYCLE !!

The wind in my hair...just feeling the whizzing past of everything...I wouldn't mind doing it forever, except that in Singapore I probably be a lot more worried about safety. However in Cambodia you just cast caution to the wind. We rode without helmets as pillions with strangers and it was totally cool.

I mean everybody will probably think that we were crazy and how dangerous it was. However it was Cambodia where it is the norm to do so. I wouldn't do it in Singapore because if some stranger offered me a ride without a helmet, I would really doubt his ability to navigate the traffic in Singapore. Besides it is not the norm to have motorbike taxis. However over there, there are fewer cars...the speed was slower and I suppose you can't go too fast on dirt or bumpy roads. And motorbike taxis are just as common as taxis here in Singapore or tuk-tuks over there.

We finally reached our guesthostel by the river. The room was a bit of a letdown although it was big. There were strong working fans but there doesn't seem to be an opening for fresh air. The ventilation fan wasn't working and we didn't want to open the windows. There wasn't a place for us to hang our clothes for bathing, nor a sink and the toilet door wouldn't close properly. The room looked pretty dismal. But it was only for 6 USD per night and I guess we just needed some adjusting after our better room in Siem Reap. I didn't mind everything and wouldn't mind staying there again if they fixed the ventilation fan because it offers a nice view of the river. You hardly notice the stuffiness of the room unless you go out and come into the room again. I mean..seriously..it only costed us about 4.20 SGD per night each.

We went to check in after we had deposited our luggage. It turned out that the guy whom I rode pillion with was a guide who spoke very good English. His name is Van Dad and he told us to call him "Dud". I could tell he was a big eager for us to go up to Bokor mountain on motorcycles with him. He kept reiterating that it would be fun to spend the night there, instead of following a car up. I was a bit hesitant as I've heard that the road is extremely rocky. I looked to Gan who seemed ok with it and eventually I decided that the locals are good at their stuff anyway so... I mean based on gut and instinct, I knew there shouldn't be any problem. However being rational, I still felt compelled to look at the issue from all angles and after weighing the various factors quickly, I agreed.

It was 25 USD each, to bring us up and back on motorbikes and 5 USD for entrance into Bokor mountain and another 5 USD to stay at the ranger station there. It sounded reasonable to me and we agreed. He said he would come to pick us up the next day at 8.30 a.m and we could leave our things in the guesthouse.

We then bathed and I had to clean up the mess in my backpack because the jar of moisturiser that I brought had spilled. Gan also hustled me to go bathe because of my rashes that were throughout my whole body. It was amazing how the lack of hot water didn't affect me. I think it was because of the rash, my skin actually felt warm when I palmed my arms and forearms... and it was lucky that the place wasn't that cold to begin with or I would have came out with chattering teeth like the stay in Chiangmai. After we bathed, we had this weird seafood fried rice for dinner at the guesthouse, eating and reading at the same time. The sun had already set by then.

Dinner was overall pale pink in colour and I think they fry it with salted fish paste or something. Somehow I was in the phase where I either didn't require much food intake or I was gradually losing my appetite because the food didn't really agree with me. But I think it was the former because I wasn't turned off by the food. I just didn't feel hungry like the periods where I will not binge and binge again. I finshed 3/4 of the plate and had to compelled myself to polish off the rest.

Because of the rashes, I slept in my sleeping bag. It wasn't that the bed looked dirty but at least I know that the sleeping bag was guaranteed clean. I also messaged my consultant in Aust, Jac, and asked her if I have no known allergies to food and never had rashes because of alcohol, could the rashes throughout my body be due to dirt or something. She said that it was probably heat rash and I should apply calmine lotion or get an antihistamine from the pharmacy. It is so cool to have a pharmacist friend who knows her stuff isn't it? =P

Anyway, it is amazing how much we sleep in Cambodia. By 9 p.m I think we were already fast asleep. Even though we didn't tour today, I still really enjoyed the road trip. And you know what? I bet I will still enjoy it as much as the first time if I do it again. *beams

Cambodia 2007 - Day 3

Cambodia 2007

Day 3:

- Sunrise at Sras Srang

We got up early again for a sunrise at Sras Srang. It was serene and beautiful. There were hardly any tourists however there were many kids clamouring to ask us if we wanted to have coffee, breakfast or purchase postcards and scarfs. With the colour of the sky reflected in the water, the place had a mystical beauty. It was however dark and we didn't have any torchlight. The weirdest thing was....Gan actually did pack a torchlight, we just never thought to bring it everytime when we needed it.

I actually got rather annoyed at a point in time when trying to focus on the sunrise because the kids just wouldn't give up. They were overly friendly, like pushing bangles made onto our wrists. We tried to return it to them but they refused, telling us that it was a gift and that we needn't pay them. Gan and I thus felt obliged to have breakfast there. I asked for tea with milk and I got a weird concoction. I think they used green tea instead and the tea was cream with a hint of green. It tasted superbly sweet too. Somehow I don't think they drink milk tea over there because it wasn't even on the menu.

I was constantly pestered by a boy who wanted to sell me postcards. Initially he pestered Gan, however after I bought a scarf from this cute little girl who looked to be only 5 or 6 (I'm sure she is older) and after Gan got rid of him him giving him Oreos, he started to repeat for me to buy postcards...and he wouldn't stop. The locals were very friendly. However I am not altogether sure if they were friendly because it was a ploy to get us to buy something. I bought a pair of fishermen pants and when we left, a woman said that "You don't play fair, you know?!!" presumbably because we didn't get an item from everybody. I think an older girl also cried because I didn't get anything from her.

It was then I got the feeling that I was supposed to do charity and 'help' the Cambodians because I came from a more affluent country, never mind if I needed the items they were selling or not.

Initially I felt bad about not getting stuff and then it changed to being annoyed over being made to feel obliged to buy their items from them. Oh well......

- Banteay Srei

We headed to Banteay Srei next, one of my favourite temples. It is made of pink sandstone. When the morning light hits it, it gleams of rich warm browns and copper tones. The place is small (relative to Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom) but rather serene with the carvings still visible. When we went there, the place wasn't overcrowded with tourists, possibly because it was out of the way. We even napped on our tuk-tuk. However when we left, busloads of tourists were just beginning to arrive.

We bought a book each for about 7.50 USD. Considering that it was colour printed on good quality paper, it was quite worth it. However it was only later at Phnom Penh when we realised that we must have gotten a 'pirated' book.

Oh and we had some local food at some roadside stall. It looked really messy. It look like a tangled mess of white rice noodles or mifen in some beige colour soup. It tasted quite exotic and we were later informed that the bowl contains lotus and banana flowers. I actually had to force myself to finish it. The road-side stall located next to the dusty road was pretty unclean with flies flying around and sometimes landing on the plates and pots or even food. As you can well imagine, vehicles sometimes produces puffs of fine sand and dust. However logically speaking, a little inorganic dirt would not cause too great a harm to the body.

There was tea provided however I didn't dare drink any of it as cups were used only to be overturned for the next user. I wasn't that thirsty. From that, I knew they probably didn't really clean the utensils properly. Still that is quite all right. I am not usually so picky about the cleanliness of the eating place abroad. Quite gung-ho in fact. My stomach is quite strong after all the years of eating dinner only when I was ready to. So I sometimes only ate dinner that have been around for more than 6 or even 9 hours. I mean.. it is an experience right...=P

However even though I didn't feel like puking the food out, it was certainly a challenge to finish my bowl. We only had it because our tuk-tuk driver actually enthusiastically promoted the stall when we came out of Banteay Srei. He said he had two bowls. Frankly speaking the local fare didn't appeal because it just isn't what I am used to. It was definitely the exotic taste and how everything was cold, clammy and messy. One bowl of that messy noodle regardless of where it appears in, is quite enough. Thank you very much.

Anyway.. here are the pictures of one of my favourite temples.

Then it was back to the clusters of temples. I think we visited East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean and Preah Khan. There were so many temples and I think we visited some of the minor ones that I simply cannot really classify anymore. Neak Pean was quiet and I am sure it must have looked very pretty in the past when the water filled the ponds.

at Neak Pean...

at Preak Khan...

Preah Khan was relative free from tourists too. People who came were mostly on their own or in small groups. The place was only recently discovered (in the nineties, if I am not wrong). Parts of it were in disarray with certan sections having already crumbled. There are plans to conserve and maintain the place but the ruined parts have already become part of its charm.

Walking alone in there,
time seemed to have stood still.
If I could read there forever,
I would,
until only all that is left around me was dust.

Well, we didn't know what to do after we finished with the temples so guess what.. we returned to the hostel to zzz again !! We ventured out late afternoon to explore a bit of the town, bought more silk scarves and had an early dinner ar Pub Street in a different restaurant that offers Apsara dancing. However we were too early and finished dinner and decided that we didn't want to wait.

town of Siem Reap...

Pub Street at night...

Reading while waiting for dinner to come....

We had a cup of tea at a cafe that called itself Bubble Tea Cafe or something like that before deciding to get a bottle of red wine at the convenience stall. Clumsy me actually broke a small bottle. Luckily it only costed only 1 USD.

Back in our room, Gan only drank like 1/4 and promptly declared that she had enough and was going to sleep. Since I felt that throwing it away would be too wasteful, I finished it. The world tilted from side to side when I finished. It felt like I was walking on a little sampan. However I managed to brush my teeth and packed the clothes that had dried while making space for those that hadn't.

Slumber definitely came easily. Even without the alcohol, our room was really easy to sleep in. =)

Cambodia 2007 - Day 2

Cambodia 2007

Day 2:

- Sunrise at Angkor Wat

We got up around 4+ because our driver was scheduled to come at 5 a.m. It was a great feeling, taking the tuk-tuk. Heading to Angkor Wat under the cover of darkness, with the skies incredibly starry and the cool wind in my hair...I kept poking my head out to look at the skies, I lost my cap. It must have been as thus a few centuries ago with the same stars and Angkor Wat in the distance. The journey that morning will be etched in my heart forever, close always.

When we reached Angkor Wat, we had to make our way in the dark and we didn't have a torch again! So we depended on minimal lighting from the torchlights of other tourists. We didn't really know where to go and ended up following masses of dark shadows around. Finally, we reached a spot where most of the people settled for.

Angkor Wat is magnificent. One can scarely believe that it was built a few centuries before. The grandness of the buildings, the intricate carvings and how everything is so unique. I've read that at one glance the many asparas looked to be the same but in fact they are are all unique, different in their accessories or in the position of their hands...=)

The morning sun hitting the courtyard was also a sight to behold. What one sees is probably the exact same scene an observer standing in your place would have saw centuries earlier. Treading grounds that have seen the passage of time longer than our brief human lifespans is an incredible feeling. Touching the pillars, knowing that someone probably rested against it or have laid their hands on it just makes me feel that the long passage of time between us is but a moment's respite.

- Angkor Thom

I believe we went in through the South gate where there were rows of stone figures holding up the body of a naga (supposedly depicting the Churning of the Ocean of Milk). Gan was the one who brought the iconology to my attention and then after which, I saw them like almost everywhere...

It has its roots from the Hindu epic Bhagavata-Purana. The gods and demons churns the ocean of milk in order to obtain an elixir that will make them immortal. The gods and demons work together by pulling on a naga's (serpent) body.

It's really amazing how they managed to build all those massive monuments, isn't it? And I realised that the picture I took at the South gate of Angkor Thom would pass for a classic picture of a car advertisement.

Angkor Thom is not a temple but a city although there are ruins of shrines in the compound. Cambodia is definitely a hot place and the sun shines so brightly that I can really tan within two days. But I love it when the rays hit the ruins and puddles of light and shadows form...



We went to Bayon, within Angkor Thom first. It was a bit weird to see a balloon bearing the name of Tokyo University there. It totally didn't fit in with the decor. They were there to help to maintain and conserve the ruins. There were signages to explain what they were doing, the problems faced and the progress so far. An example I remembered was how sand was used to mould the blocks so that they fitted exactly but due to the nature of the stones, water has eroded them such that they no longer fitted exactly like before and have become fairly unstable.

As with maintaining historic sites, there is always the factor of authencity. It is not possible to remove and rebuilt everything for then the heritage would be lost. In trying to limit the replacements of stones (they also had to find matching stones) as well as having to work with the ancient design and workmanship and environmental erosion part of the authencity, one can imagine the difficulties that they face are of great consequence.

There were also many large faces and some of them were seen in temples later on too. I love this picture with the face catching the warmth of the sun because along with the aged stones that has transcend the centuries, comes with life on it that seemed sort of symbolic to me. It was totally apt that life should be there along with the ruins that have already weathered the elements over time.

Angkor Thom is big. In fact we headed to the Baphuon and I think Gan didn't want to go up. We wandered for some more before we got really quite tired. Not tired of taking in everything but our legs simply couldn't carry us in the fierce heat anymore.

In the grounds of the Royal Palace, I replaced the cap I lost with an extremely wide-brimmed hot pink hat. I do wish there was a better colour but given a choice between hot pink, a trashy red one that says New York and one with *ahem flower printed motifs, I chose the hot pink. I was pleased that it cost only 2 USD. I bargained of course. I can't remember what the seller quoted me. I was eager for the wide-brimmed hat just not in that colour and started to walk off before the seller called for me and agreed to sell.

Had to really wash it when I got back of course. But given the huge brim that totally cover my face, I probably will bring that pink hat with me on hot holiday trips.

Gan and I then flopped down under shade to sit, relax and take in the surroundings. We really couldn't walk anymore and it was not even noon yet.

We headed back to our tuk-tuk and he drove us to the North Kleangs that I noticed not too far off but was reluctant to walk to. I just wanted to see how they look like at close range. After which we left by one of the gates and headed to the next temple.

After which, we went to a series of temples, some were like little ruins hidden away in the jungle, others were the ancient version of skyscrapers that we needed to climb up to. There were still others that were fighting not to crumble under enormous roots of trees.

Here's a short video of what we saw when we sat and stare. We jus sat quietly, watching the leaves fall when the wind came rustling...

After which we headed back to the hostel around 3+ to...sleep again. Hah. We decided not to go and watch any sunsets after our tuk-tuk driver charged us extra. We woke up in the evening and headed to the Soup Dragon in Pub Street to eat our dinner. It really is quite a nice place and we had seats on the second floor. Across the street, there was a projection of Spiderman 3 on a big screen so we could watch if we wanted. I mostly read and wine was cheap. It was around 10 USD for less or a bottle and we finished our wine there and then.

We walked back...bathed and then finally climbed into bed around 10 or 11 pm.